Mela B3 Serum

Product description

A dark-spot serum built on niacinamide plus the brand's patented Melasyl molecule, with LHA (capryloyl salicylic acid) and liquorice-derived dipotassium glycyrrhizate further down the list.

Full ingredient list

Kept exactly as the source printed it, including spelling in the original.

1. 1 WATER
2. 2 DIMETHICONE
3. 3 NIACINAMIDE
4. 4 GLYCERIN
5. 5 PROPYLENE GLYCOL
6. 6 POLYSILICONE-11
7. 7 SILICA
8. 8 BIS-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 DIMETHICONE
9. 9 CYSTOSEIRA TAMARISCIFOLIA EXTRACT
10. 10 2-MERCAPTONICOTINOYL GLYCINE
11. 11 PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE
12. 12 SODIUM HYALURONATE
13. 13 SODIUM HYDROXIDE
14. 14 SODIUM THIOSULFATE
15. 15 CARNOSINE
16. 16 POLOXAMER 338
17. 17 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE
18. 18 DIPOTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZATE
19. 19 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
20. 20 CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID
21. 21 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL
22. 22 CITRIC ACID
23. 23 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE
24. 24 XANTHAN GUM
25. 25 PENTYLENE GLYCOL
26. 26 OCTYLDODECANOL
27. 27 RETINYL PALMITATE
28. 28 TOCOPHEROL
29. 29 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE
30. 30 PHENOXYETHANOL
31. 31 CI 17200
32. 32 PARFUM / FRAGRANCE Name pending

AQUA / WATER / EAU ● DIMETHICONE ● NIACINAMIDE ● GLYCERIN ● PROPYLENE GLYCOL ● POLYSILICONE-11 ● SILICA ● BIS-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 DIMETHICONE ● CYSTOSEIRA TAMARISCIFOLIA EXTRACT ● 2-MERCAPTONICOTINOYL GLYCINE ● PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE ● SODIUM HYALURONATE ● SODIUM HYDROXIDE ● SODIUM THIOSULFATE ● CARNOSINE ● POLOXAMER 338 ● AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE ● DIPOTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZATE ● CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE ● CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID ● CAPRYLYL GLYCOL ● CITRIC ACID ● TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE ● XANTHAN GUM ● PENTYLENE GLYCOL ● OCTYLDODECANOL ● RETINYL PALMITATE ● TOCOPHEROL ● PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE ● PHENOXYETHANOL ● CI 17200 / RED 33 ● PARFUM / FRAGRANCE

Ingredient analysis

NIACINAMIDE · Actives · NIACINAMIDE · Barrier lipids · GLYCERIN · Humectants

Evidence

• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In a randomized, placebo-controlled split-face study of 30 healthy Japanese women, a cosmetic containing 4% niacinamide reduced the skin-surface average roughness (Ra) value significantly more than the niacinamide-free control site after 8 weeks (P<0.05).

  Who it applies to: Skin-surface roughness measured by replica profilometry (Ra).

  Study limits: Measured at the eye area on a photoaged/wrinkle cohort; the endpoint is surface roughness.

  Source:Evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing niacinamide
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In 20 people with Fitzpatrick skin types IV-V, a broad-spectrum sunscreen containing sclareolide and niacinamide significantly prevented experimentally induced post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: in stripped, exposed zones the protected skin improved by +5.96 ITA degrees versus -9.88 in unprotected skin (net protection about 16 ITA degrees, p < 0.001).

  Who it applies to: People with darker skin phototypes (IV-V) prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, applying the sunscreen daily for 20 days under UV and visible-light exposure.

  Study limits: Small sample (20), within-subject controlled model of experimentally induced pigmentation; the abstract calls for comparative studies with and; industry involvement.

  Source:An Investigator-Blinded, Randomized Trial of a Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen Containing Sclareolide and Niacinamide for the Prevention of Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Skin of Color
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In 72 women with visible signs of ageing, a niacinamide-containing biomimetic lamellar cream significantly improved the Cutometer R5 elasticity parameter, wrinkle score, TEWL and corneometer values over 4 weeks compared against the untreated side.

  Who it applies to: Women with visible signs of ageing, applying the cream twice daily for 4 weeks.

  Study limits: Grading of high-resolution images failed to detect improvements in skin texture; proof-of-concept studies.

  Source:Cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic lamellar cream formulation on barrier function or the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in randomized proof-of-concept clinical studies
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In 91 women with melasma, a skincare routine containing vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and 2-mercaptonicotinyl glycine significantly reduced MASI after 3 months, with roughly 38-41% reduction by 6 months.

  Who it applies to: Women aged about 44 with melasma, phototypes III-IV, using the routine twice daily with daily SPF50+ sunscreen.

  Study limits: A clinically relevant difference favoured Kligman's triple combination in the first 3 months; industry-funded; skin radiance and fine wrinkles also improved.

  Source:A Novel Dermocosmetic Routine Containing Vitamin B3 and 2-Mercaptonicotinyl Glycine Significantly Improves Melasma After 3 Months of Daily Use
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled split-face trial of 52 Taiwanese subjects, 4% niacinamide alone significantly reduced instrument-measured pore counts at week 8, and 4% niacinamide with 0.03% kinetin produced persistent significant reductions in pore, spot, wrinkle and evenness counts at weeks 8 and 12.

  Who it applies to: Instrument-measured facial pore counts over 8-12 weeks.

  Study limits: The niacinamide-group showed significant pore reduction at week 8; 'pore counts' is an instrument parameter.

  Source:The clinical anti-aging effects of topical kinetin and niacinamide in Asians: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative trial
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial of 100 Japanese subjects, a 2% niacinamide moisturiser significantly lowered sebum excretion rate after 2 and 4 weeks; in a separate 30-person Caucasian split-face study it significantly reduced casual sebum level after 6 weeks.

  Who it applies to: Adults with facial sebum concerns applying a 2% niacinamide moisturiser for 2 to 6 weeks; measured with sebumeter-based sebum excretion rate and casual sebum level.

  Study limits: The effect differs by measured endpoint and population.

  Source:The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In 40 people with mild-to-moderate acne all using topical benzoyl peroxide plus adapalene, a moisturiser with ceramides and niacinamide significantly improved non-inflammatory, inflammatory and total acne lesions on that side of the face versus a hydrophilic cream after 8 weeks, and decreased cutaneous irritation.

  Who it applies to: People on topical anti-acne medication who add a moisturiser alongside treatment, in a split-face, double-blind, randomized design for 8 weeks.

  Study limits: All participants used prescription/OTC anti-acne drugs (5% benzoyl peroxide + 0.1% adapalene). TEWL, hydration, sebum, pH and other biophysical measures stayed close between the two creams. This is adjunctive care.

  Source:Efficacy of ceramides and niacinamide-containing moisturizer versus hydrophilic cream in combination with topical anti-acne treatment in mild to moderate acne vulgaris: A split face, double-blinded, randomized controlled trial
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In a 12-week randomized, double-blind half-face study, a combination of 4-hexylresorcinol and niacinamide improved hyperpigmentation spots (L*), the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and skin firmness significantly more than niacinamide alone.

  Who it applies to: Chinese adults using the combination cream twice daily for 12 weeks in a split-face design.

  Study limits: Industry-funded (Unilever R&D); part of the evidence comes from in-vitro melanocyte and 3D skin models.

  Source:Superior even skin tone and anti-ageing benefit of a combination of 4-hexylresorcinol and niacinamide
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Low Primary source

  A facial moisturiser containing niacinamide improved stratum corneum barrier function and skin hydration, measured instrumentally, in people with rosacea over four weeks of twice-daily use.

  Who it applies to: A leave-on facial moisturiser, applied twice daily for four weeks, in adults with rosacea.

  Study limits: The tested article was a finished moisturiser. Fifty participants, one centre, four weeks. The study measured barrier function and hydration.

  Source:Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Low Primary source

  In a randomized split-face controlled trial in people with rosacea-associated erythema and sensitive skin, a dermocosmetic containing mineralizing water, probiotic fractions, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide significantly improved erythema at day 15 (p<0.01) and day 30 (p<0.001), with skin erythema, tightness, dryness, hydration and TEWL improving versus the untreated side (p<=0.05).

  Who it applies to: Facial erythema, tightness, dryness, hydration and TEWL over 30 days.

  Study limits: The comparator is usual skin care / an untreated half-face.

  Source:A Randomized, Controlled Clinical Trial of a Dermocosmetic Containing Vichy Volcanic Mineralizing Water and Probiotic Fractions in Subjects with Rosacea Associated with Erythema and Sensitive Skin and Wearing Protective Masks
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Low Primary source

  In an open randomized, vehicle-controlled trial of 48 people with mild-to-moderate facial seborrheic dermatitis, 4% nicotinamide cream once daily for 12 weeks reduced the combined erythema/scaling/infiltration score by 75% from baseline versus 35% with the vehicle (p<0.05).

  Who it applies to: Combined clinical score of erythema, scaling and infiltration over 12 weeks.

  Study limits: Open-label.

  Source:Topical nicotinamide for seborrheic dermatitis: an open randomized study
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Low Primary source

  In 30 women with melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, a serum combining lotus sprout extract, tranexamic acid and niacinamide reduced skin tone unevenness by 38% and 33% respectively over 16 weeks (P < 0.008).

  Who it applies to: Women with melasma or PIH, 70% with Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI, applying the serum twice daily for 16 weeks.

  Study limits: 30 participants; "skin tone unevenness" is a sponsor-defined endpoint.

  Source:Efficacy and Tolerability of a Topical Pigment-Correcting Serum in Melasma and Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In a randomized, double-blind, four-arm crossover study of 51 healthy volunteers with dry skin, an emollient containing glycerol and petrolatum raised corneometry-measured skin moisture significantly above its vehicle (P < 0.0001) over 12 hours. The authors attributed the hydration gain to the glycerol component and the lower water loss to the petrolatum component.

  Who it applies to: Corneometry (skin moisture) and transepidermal water loss over 12 hours after one application.

  Study limits: Measured on the forearms. The significant hydration result comes from the full emollient containing both glycerol and petrolatum.

  Source:Combined effects of glycerol and petrolatum in an emollient cream: A randomized, double-blind, crossover study in healthy volunteers with dry skin
• Skin effect Review article Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  Topical glycerol improves stratum corneum hydration, barrier function and skin mechanical properties. The review also reports reduced irritation response and faster wound healing, and traces the effect to aquaporin-3 transport and to glycerol's own presence in the skin.

  Who it applies to: Leave-on products. The review discusses both healthy skin and skin with dry or barrier-impaired conditions such as atopic dermatitis.

  Study limits: A narrative review. It compiles mechanisms and results from other studies.

  Source:Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
• Skin effect Official ingredient listing Certainty: High Public database

  Glycerin is classified as a humectant in cosmetic ingredient databases: its role in a formula is to hold water.

  Who it applies to: Cosmetic formulas generally. · Ingredient database · GLYCERIN

  Study limits: Skin effect of to the stratum corneum comes from a separate review of the literature. · Ingredient database · GLYCERIN

  Source:PubChemCosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  All five 0.1% hyaluronic acid creams tested, from 50 kDa to 2000 kDa, raised skin hydration and overall elasticity above the vehicle cream applied to the other eye at 60 days.

  Who it applies to: 0.1% hyaluronic acid creams applied twice daily for 60 days to the eye area of women aged 30-60 with periocular wrinkles.

  Study limits: Sixty days, and the vehicle sat on the fellow eye. Hydration and elasticity were read by instruments. The volunteers were women aged 30-60 with eye-area wrinkles.

  Source:Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment
• How deep it gets In vitro study Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  Hyaluronic acid of 20-300 kDa crossed the stratum corneum in excised human skin, while hyaluronic acid of 1000-1400 kDa remained in the stratum corneum.

  Who it applies to: Excised human skin with intact stratum corneum, measured by Raman micro-imaging after topical application.

  Study limits: One laboratory's imaging study. Three molecular-weight grades were tested. "remains above" describes intact stratum corneum in this ex vivo setup.

  Source:Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy
• Skin effect Brand claim Certainty: Moderate Public database

  Hyaluronic acid and its salt bind water at the skin surface, giving a plumper look immediately after application.

  Who it applies to: Leave-on hydrating products.

  Study limits: The effect is largely surface and temporary. In dry air a humectant. · Finding · Sodium hyaluronate · Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid

  Source:Hyaluronic Acid (CeraVe ingredient page)PubChem
• Legal limits Official legal text Certainty: High Primary source

  US regulation lists dimethicone as a permitted active ingredient in over-the-counter skin protectant products, at 1 to 30 percent. That is a legal status in one market, and it puts dimethicone in the same list as petrolatum, glycerin and colloidal oatmeal.

  Who it applies to: Products sold in the US that make a skin-protectant claim, with dimethicone between 1 and 30 percent.

  Study limits: A monograph entry sets what may be sold and what may be claimed. · 1993 · Consumers of over-the-counter skin protectant products in the US.

  Source:21 CFR 347.10 - Skin protectant active ingredients (US Code of Federal Regulations)
• Legal limits Official legal text Certainty: High Primary source

  The EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety concluded in 2016 that 2-phenoxyethanol is safe as a preservative at a maximum of 1.0%, which is the limit already set in Annex V/29 of the EU Cosmetics Regulation. It estimated a margin of safety of about 50 for children.

  Who it applies to: Phenoxyethanol used as a preservative in cosmetic products, at or below 1.0%.

  Study limits: The dossier behind the conclusion was submitted by Cosmetics Europe, the industry association, and the committee lowered the default toxicokinetic factor from 4.0 to 1.0 on its way to the 1.0% conclusion. The final opinion kept 1.0%.

  Source:Opinion of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) - Final version of the opinion on Phenoxyethanol in cosmetic products
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In a split-face randomized controlled trial of 50 women, a serum with 20% vitamin C, vitamin E and raspberry leaf cell culture extract significantly improved skin radiance measured by Glossymeter GL200, along with skin colour and elasticity, over 2 months.

  Who it applies to: Women aged 30-65 applying the serum to one side of the face for 2 months, with the untreated side as control.

  Study limits: Split-face with an untreated.

  Source:Anti-aging and brightening effects of a topical treatment containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract: A split-face, randomized controlled trial
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Low Primary source

  In 31 women aged 43-65, a serum combining vitamins C and E with green tea polyphenols produced statistically significant improvements in all clinically graded parameters over 12 weeks, including enhanced skin smoothness and radiance, plus an ultrasound-measured increase in skin density.

  Who it applies to: Women aged 43-65 with photoaged facial skin, applying the serum twice daily for 12 weeks.

  Study limits: Radiance was a clinical grading parameter.

  Source:Novel Vitamin C and E and Green Tea Polyphenols Combination Serum Improves Photoaged Facial Skin
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Low Primary source

  In a double-blind trial that split each scar into two halves. Or made worse, the cosmetic appearance.

  Who it applies to: Scars after surgical removal of skin cancer, treated twice daily for four weeks with a petrolatum-based ointment.

  Study limits: Fifteen people, one centre, published in 1999. Pigmentation, or the job vitamin E does inside a formula, where it slows oxidation of the oils.

  Source:The effects of topical vitamin E on the cosmetic appearance of scars
• Sensitization Human trial Certainty: Low Primary source

  In the same split-scar trial, 33% of the participants developed contact dermatitis to the vitamin E ointment.

  Who it applies to: Vitamin E in a petrolatum-based ointment applied to healing surgical wounds, twice daily for four weeks.

  Study limits: Small trial (15 people) with a single product.

  Source:The effects of topical vitamin E on the cosmetic appearance of scars

Related skin concerns

Skin concerns with evidence for ingredients on this list.

Formula history

1 version of this formula on record.

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