Skin concern
Barrier damage
Primary sourceBarrier damage: the stratum corneum losing its ability to hold water in and keep irritants out. It appears as tightness, stinging and flaking. The strongest evidence comes from a 2008 review article covering humans in the cited studies, plus animal and in-vitro work on mechanism: Topical glycerol improves stratum corneum hydration, barrier function and skin mechanical properties. The review also reports reduced irritation response and faster wound healing, and traces the effect to aquaporin-3 transport and to glycerol's own presence in the skin. 4 ingredients have evidence for Barrier damage: Glycerin, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Dimethicone. 1 of the 5 findings concerns a risk.
Barrier damage raises transepidermal water loss. Five findings measure TEWL and stratum corneum hydration, including 2005 · 50 people · PMID 16209160 and 2025 · 60 people · PMID 40613435.
Where the definition comes from
Source wording
“The physical barrier is mainly localized in the stratum corneum (SC) and consists of protein-enriched cells (corneocytes with cornified envelope and cytoskeletal elements, as well as corneodesmosomes) and lipid-enriched intercellular domains.” … “Changes in epidermal differentiation and lipid composition lead to a disturbed skin barrier, which allows the entry of environmental allergens, immunological reaction and inflammation.” — from the 2008 Experimental Dermatology review.
The skin: an indispensable barrier Experimental Dermatology (Proksch, Brandner & Jensen)
Ingredients at a glance
2008 · Humans in the cited studies, plus animal and in-vitro work on mechanism · PMID 18510666
| Ingredient | Measured outcome | Based on | Certainty | Year |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Glycerin | Skin effect | Review article | Moderate | 2008 |
| Niacinamide | Skin effect | Human trial | Low | 2005 |
| Panthenol | Skin effect | Human trial | Low | 2025 |
| Panthenol | Sensitization | Review article | Low | 2026 |
| Dimethicone | Legal limits | Official legal text | High | 1993 |
Studies and results
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
Topical glycerol improves stratum corneum hydration, barrier function and skin mechanical properties. The review also reports reduced irritation response and faster wound healing, and traces the effect to aquaporin-3 transport and to glycerol's own presence in the skin.
Review article · 2008 · Humans in the cited studies, plus animal and in-vitro work on mechanism · Leave-on products. The review discusses both healthy skin and skin with dry or barrier-impaired conditions such as atopic dermatitis. · A narrative review. It compiles mechanisms and results from other studies.
- Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea
A facial moisturiser containing niacinamide improved stratum corneum barrier function and skin hydration, measured instrumentally, in people with rosacea over four weeks of twice-daily use.
Human trial · 2005 · 50 people · Adults with rosacea · A leave-on facial moisturiser, applied twice daily for four weeks, in adults with rosacea. · The tested article was a finished moisturiser. Fifty participants, one centre, four weeks. The study measured barrier function and hydration.
- Evaluation of the Efficacy and Safety of a Panthenol-Enriched Mask for Skin Barrier Recovery After Facial Laser Treatment: Results of a Double-Blind Randomized Controlled Study
After facial non-ablative fractional laser treatment, a panthenol mask lowered the erythema and pigmentation indices on days 3, 7 and 14 against a saline dressing, raised stratum corneum moisture, and reduced transepidermal water loss over the same days. Sebum content was also higher in the mask group on days 7 and 14.
Human trial · 2025 · 60 people · Adults recovering from facial non-ablative fractional laser treatment · Skin recovering from 1550 nm and 1927 nm non-ablative fractional laser on the face. Both groups received standard post-procedure care. · The mask also contained madecassoside and bisabolol. It is one trial of 60 people, all recovering from the same procedure, and the published grant list includes L'Oreal Dermatological Beauty China (La Roche-Posay).
- 21 CFR 347.10 - Skin protectant active ingredients (US Code of Federal Regulations)
US regulation lists dimethicone as a permitted active ingredient in over-the-counter skin protectant products, at 1 to 30 percent. That is a legal status in one market, and it puts dimethicone in the same list as petrolatum, glycerin and colloidal oatmeal.
Official legal text · 1993 · Consumers of over-the-counter skin protectant products in the US · Products sold in the US that make a skin-protectant claim, with dimethicone between 1 and 30 percent. · A monograph entry sets what may be sold and what may be claimed. · 1993 · Consumers of over-the-counter skin protectant products in the US.
Risks found for this concern
- Pantothenic Acid as an Unexpected Cause of Hypersensitivity to Sensitive or Atopic Skin Care Products - A Narrative Review
Panthenol is treated as non-allergenic, this review argues that frequent exposure, especially on damaged skin, can produce hypersensitivity to it. The likely route is a delayed (type IV) contact reaction; immediate and mixed reactions remain possible. Proposes patch testing with the patient's own product and with panthenol 5% in petrolatum.
Review article · 2026 · People with atopic or damaged skin using panthenol-containing products · People who use panthenol products repeatedly, particularly those with atopic or damaged skin - the group the author says is most exposed. · A single-author narrative review. The mechanism it proposes is stated as likely. Read it as a reason to keep panthenol on the list of possible allergens.
Study limits
Study conditions and measured outcomes.
-
Glycerin Review article · 2008
A narrative review. It compiles mechanisms and results from other studies.
-
Niacinamide Human trial · 2005
The tested article was a finished moisturiser. Fifty participants, one centre, four weeks. The study measured barrier function and hydration.
-
Panthenol Human trial · 2025
The mask also contained madecassoside and bisabolol. It is one trial of 60 people, all recovering from the same procedure, and the published grant list includes L'Oreal Dermatological Beauty China (La Roche-Posay).
-
Panthenol Review article · 2026
A single-author narrative review. The mechanism it proposes is stated as likely. Read it as a reason to keep panthenol on the list of possible allergens.
-
Dimethicone Official legal text · 1993
A monograph entry sets what may be sold and what may be claimed. · 1993 · Consumers of over-the-counter skin protectant products in the US.
Products with a basis for this
66 products · 10% Niacinamide Booster · Alpha Arbutin Serum 2% · 2008 · Humans in the cited studies, plus animal and in-vitro work on mechanism · PMID 18510666
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Paula's Choice
10% Niacinamide Booster
- Niacinamide 1 finding
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Panthenol 1 finding
-
Naturium
Alpha Arbutin Serum 2%
- Niacinamide 1 finding
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Panthenol 1 finding
-
Anua
Azelaic Acid 10% + Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum
- Panthenol 1 finding
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Niacinamide 1 finding
-
Beauty of Joseon
Calming Barrier Serum
- Niacinamide 1 finding
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Panthenol 1 finding
-
Cetaphil
Gentle Skin Cleanser
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Panthenol 1 finding
- Niacinamide 1 finding
-
Beauty of Joseon
Glow Deep Serum : Rice + Alpha-Arbutin
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Niacinamide 1 finding
- Panthenol 1 finding
-
Cetaphil
Moisturizing Cream
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Panthenol 1 finding
- Niacinamide 1 finding
-
Anua
Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Niacinamide 1 finding
- Panthenol 1 finding
-
Cetaphil
Restoraderm Eczema Soothing Moisturizer
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Niacinamide 1 finding
- Panthenol 1 finding
-
Naturium
Tranexamic Topical Acid 5%
- Niacinamide 1 finding
- Panthenol 1 finding
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Anua
3-Ceramide + Panthenol Moisture Barrier Cream
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CeraVe
Acne Control Cleanser
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Niacinamide 1 finding
-
The Ordinary
AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution
-
Aveeno
Calm + Restore Oat Gel Moisturizer
-
La Roche-Posay
Cicaplast Baume B5+
-
Aveeno
Daily Face Cleanser Foaming Gel
- Panthenol 1 finding
- Niacinamide 1 finding
-
Cetaphil
Deep Hydration Refreshing Eye Serum
-
CeraVe
Eye Repair Cream
- Niacinamide 1 finding
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
CeraVe
Foaming Facial Cleanser
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Niacinamide 1 finding
-
Cetaphil
Gentle Foaming Cleanser
-
Beauty of Joseon
Glow Serum : Propolis + Niacinamide
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Niacinamide 1 finding
-
Anua
Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner
-
La Roche-Posay
Hyalu B5 Suractivated Serum
-
The Ordinary
Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5
-
Paula's Choice
Hyaluronic Acid Booster
-
CeraVe
Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum
-
La Roche-Posay
Mela B3 Serum
- Niacinamide 1 finding
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Neutrogena
Oil-Free Acne Wash (Fragrance-Free)
-
CeraVe
PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Niacinamide 1 finding
-
Aveeno
Positively Radiant Vitamin C Serum
- Niacinamide 1 finding
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Beauty of Joseon
Revive Eye Serum : Ginseng + Retinal
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Niacinamide 1 finding
-
CeraVe
SA Cream for Rough & Bumpy Skin
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Niacinamide 1 finding
-
CeraVe
Skin Renewing Retinol Serum
- Glycerin 1 finding
- Niacinamide 1 finding
-
CeraVe
Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum
-
Paula's Choice
10% Azelaic Acid Booster
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Estée Lauder
Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Gel-Creme
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Estée Lauder
Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
La Roche-Posay
Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid SPF50+ (fragrance-free)
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
The Inkey List
Bio-Active Ceramide Moisturizer
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Paula's Choice
C15 Brightening Super Booster
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Aveeno
Calm + Restore Triple Oat Serum
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Paula's Choice
CALM Rescue & Repair Weightless Moisturizer
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Paula's Choice
CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Cetaphil
Daily Facial Moisturizer SPF 50
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Cetaphil
Daily Hydrating Lotion
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Aveeno
Daily Moisturizing Face Cream for Dry Skin with Oat
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Aveeno
Daily Moisturizing Face Lotion for Dry Skin with Oat
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
CeraVe
Daily Moisturizing Lotion
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
La Roche-Posay
Effaclar Ultra Concentrated Anti-Acne Serum
- Niacinamide 1 finding
-
The Ordinary
Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
CeraVe
Hydrating Facial Cleanser
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Neutrogena
Hydro Boost Hydrating Gel Cleanser (Fragrance-Free)
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Neutrogena
Hydro Boost Water Gel with Hyaluronic Acid
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
CeraVe
Moisturizing Cream
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
The Ordinary
Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
The Ordinary
Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
- Niacinamide 1 finding
-
Paula's Choice
Omega+ Complex Moisturizer
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
La Roche-Posay
Pure Vitamin C12 Serum
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Neutrogena
Rapid Wrinkle Repair Regenerating Cream (Retinol + Hyaluronic Acid)
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Estée Lauder
Revitalizing Supreme+ Youth Power Soft Creme
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Cetaphil
Rich Hydrating Cream
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
The Ordinary
Salicylic Acid 2% Solution
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
The Ordinary
Squalane Cleanser
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
The Inkey List
Tranexamic Acid Night Treatment
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
Neutrogena
Ultra Gentle Daily Cleanser for Sensitive Skin
- Glycerin 1 finding
-
CeraVe
Ultra-Light Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30
- Glycerin 1 finding
Common questions
- Which ingredients have been studied for Barrier damage?
- Ingredients with evidence for Barrier damage: Glycerin, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Dimethicone.
- How many people were studied?
- 5 findings · 2008 · Humans in the cited studies, plus animal and in-vitro work on mechanism · PMID 18510666
- What can I use for Barrier damage?
- Glycerin, Niacinamide, Panthenol · 2008 · Humans in the cited studies, plus animal and in-vitro work on mechanism · PMID 18510666
- Can I use these every day for Barrier damage?
- A leave-on facial moisturiser, applied twice daily for four weeks, in adults with rosacea(2005 · 50 participants · Adults with rosacea · PMID 16209160)