Skin concern
Dark circles
Primary sourceDark circles: darkening around the eyes from a mix of causes, excess pigment, visible blood vessels, shadow from skin laxity or tear-trough hollowing, and swelling. It is usually a combination type. The strongest evidence comes from a 2023 human trial of 45 completers (21 active / 24 placebo) out of 60 enrolled with infraorbital dark circles: In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, a 20% Artemisia absinthium aqueous-extract eye cream produced a significant between-group difference in Mexameter-measured periorbital melanin after treatment (p=0.01), with a greater melanin reduction than placebo. 3 ingredients have evidence for Dark circles: Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Retinol, Caffeine.
The three studies behind it are early-stage: one is single-arm and manufacturer-funded, one had unbalanced groups and the melanin endpoint reached significance, and one was a validation study with undisclosed ingredients and a manufacturer-linked author. This is preliminary support. Under-eye skin is thin.
Where the definition comes from
Source wording
“Periorbital hyperpigmentation is caused by various exogenous and endogenous factors … genetic or hereditary, excessive pigmentation, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation … periorbital edema, excessive vascularity, shadowing due to skin laxity and tear trough associated with aging.” — Sarkar et al., J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 2016 (PMID 26962392).
Periorbital Hyperpigmentation: A Comprehensive Review. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (Sarkar R)
Ingredients at a glance
2023 · 45 people · completers (21 active / 24 placebo) out of 60 enrolled with infraorbital dark circles · PMID 38774851
| Ingredient | Measured outcome | Based on | Certainty | Year |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| — | Skin effect | Human trial | Low | 2023 |
| — | Skin effect | Human trial | Low | 2025 |
| — | Skin effect | Human trial | Low | 2021 |
| Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Retinol | Skin effect | Human trial | Low | 2016 |
| Caffeine | Skin effect | Human trial | Very low | 2015 |
Studies and results
- Classification by causes of dark circles and appropriate evaluation method of dark circles
In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled split-face trial, 24 people with mixed-type dark circles used a test product containing 3% vitamin C, 0.1% vitamin A and 0.5% vitamin E for eight weeks. Brightness (L*), melanin index and image-analysis lightness improved significantly on the treated side compared with the placebo side.
Human trial · 2016 · 24 people · adults with mixed-type dark circles · Instrument-measured brightness, melanin index and skin thickness in mixed-type (pigment plus vascular) dark circles over eight weeks. · Three actives were used together. 24 people took part, all with the mixed type of dark circles; a separate 100-person study was used first to choose which measurements to trust. The abstract reports instrument readings.
- Evaluation of the clinical efficacy and safety of an eye counter pad containing caffeine and vitamin K in emulsified Emu oil base
In a single-blind trial of 11 women, an eye pad containing 3% caffeine and 1% vitamin K in an emu-oil base was worn under one eye and a water pad under the other for four weeks. Visual and instrument assessment found less wrinkle depth and lighter dark circles on the caffeine side.
Human trial · 2015 · 11 people · healthy women · Wrinkle depth and the appearance of dark circles under the eyes over four weeks, assessed visually and with a skin-testing instrument. · This pad also contained 1% vitamin K and an emu-oil base. 11 women took part, the trial was single-blind, the control was a water pad. Wrinkle reduction was the main aim; dark circles were assessed alongside it.
Study limits
Study conditions and measured outcomes.
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ev-dark-circles-artemisia-rct Human trial · 2023
Baseline DE and DL values differed significantly between groups (randomisation imbalance); 15 of 60 participants dropped out; the melanin endpoint reached between-group significance.
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ev-dark-circles-eye-cream-rct Human trial · 2025
In-vitro work is prominent; industry-funded. A systematic review of periorbital hyperpigmentation notes few high-quality studies.
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ev-dark-circles-photonumeric-rct Human trial · 2021
The study's primary purpose was scale validation; the control is an untreated half-face.
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Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Retinol Human trial · 2016
Three actives were used together. 24 people took part, all with the mixed type of dark circles; a separate 100-person study was used first to choose which measurements to trust. The abstract reports instrument readings.
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Caffeine Human trial · 2015
This pad also contained 1% vitamin K and an emu-oil base. 11 women took part, the trial was single-blind, the control was a water pad. Wrinkle reduction was the main aim; dark circles were assessed alongside it.
Products with a basis for this
10 products · Rapid Wrinkle Repair Regenerating Cream (Retinol + Hyaluronic Acid) · Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Gel-Creme · 2023 · 45 people · completers (21 active / 24 placebo) out of 60 enrolled with infraorbital dark circles · PMID 38774851
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Neutrogena
Rapid Wrinkle Repair Regenerating Cream (Retinol + Hyaluronic Acid)
- Retinol 1 finding
- Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) 1 finding
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Estée Lauder
Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Gel-Creme
- Caffeine 1 finding
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Estée Lauder
Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex
- Caffeine 1 finding
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Paula's Choice
C15 Brightening Super Booster
- Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) 1 finding
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Paula's Choice
CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment
- Retinol 1 finding
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La Roche-Posay
Pure Vitamin C12 Serum
- Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) 1 finding
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The Ordinary
Retinol 0.5% in Squalane
- Retinol 1 finding
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Estée Lauder
Revitalizing Supreme+ Youth Power Soft Creme
- Caffeine 1 finding
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CeraVe
Skin Renewing Retinol Serum
- Retinol 1 finding
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CeraVe
Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum
- Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) 1 finding
Research-backed approaches
These studies measured finished products and whole routines.
- 1 Skin effectEvaluation of the Effect of Artemisia Absinthium L. Eye-Cream on Infra-Orbital Dark Circle: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial
In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, a 20% Artemisia absinthium aqueous-extract eye cream produced a significant between-group difference in Mexameter-measured periorbital melanin after treatment (p=0.01), with a greater melanin reduction than placebo.
Human trial · 2023 · 45 people · completers (21 active / 24 placebo) out of 60 enrolled with infraorbital dark circles · Mexameter-measured periorbital melanin, erythema and colour values. · Baseline DE and DL values differed significantly between groups (randomisation imbalance); 15 of 60 participants dropped out; the melanin endpoint reached between-group significance.
- 2 Skin effectIn vitro, ex vivo, instrumental and clinical evaluation of a topical cream on the signs of periorbital ageing
In 33 women, an eye cream lightened dark circles within 7 days by instrumental measurement and within 28 days by clinical assessment over a 56-day study.
Human trial · 2025 · 33 people · women in a 56-day instrumental and clinical study · Women using the eye cream twice daily for 56 days, assessed by instrumental and clinical grading of periorbital ageing signs. · In-vitro work is prominent; industry-funded. A systematic review of periorbital hyperpigmentation notes few high-quality studies.
- 3 Skin effectA validated photonumeric scale for infraorbital dark circles and its application in evaluating the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment product in a split-face randomized clinical trial
In a split-face randomized clinical trial of 58 subjects with visible infraorbital dark circles, 8 weeks of a cosmetic eye treatment reduced the validated 10-point dark-circle grade by 0.74 versus baseline and by 0.59 versus the untreated control (P<0.001).
Human trial · 2021 · 58 people · subjects with visible infraorbital dark circles · Infraorbital dark-circle grade over 8 weeks, assessed with a validated photonumeric scale. · The study's primary purpose was scale validation; the control is an untreated half-face.
Common questions
- Which ingredients have been studied for Dark circles?
- Ingredients with evidence for Dark circles: Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Retinol, Caffeine.
- How many people were studied?
- 5 findings · 2023 · 45 people · completers (21 active / 24 placebo) out of 60 enrolled with infraorbital dark circles · PMID 38774851
- What can I use for Dark circles?
- Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Retinol, Caffeine · 2023 · 45 people · completers (21 active / 24 placebo) out of 60 enrolled with infraorbital dark circles · PMID 38774851
- Can I use these every day for Dark circles?
- Women using the eye cream twice daily for 56 days, assessed by instrumental and clinical grading of periorbital ageing signs(2025 · 33 participants · 33 women in a 56-day instrumental and clinical study · PMID 39119663)