PoreWise

Skin concern

Dark circles

Primary source

Dark circles: darkening around the eyes from a mix of causes, excess pigment, visible blood vessels, shadow from skin laxity or tear-trough hollowing, and swelling. It is usually a combination type. The strongest evidence comes from a 2023 human trial of 45 completers (21 active / 24 placebo) out of 60 enrolled with infraorbital dark circles: In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, a 20% Artemisia absinthium aqueous-extract eye cream produced a significant between-group difference in Mexameter-measured periorbital melanin after treatment (p=0.01), with a greater melanin reduction than placebo. 3 ingredients have evidence for Dark circles: Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Retinol, Caffeine.

The three studies behind it are early-stage: one is single-arm and manufacturer-funded, one had unbalanced groups and the melanin endpoint reached significance, and one was a validation study with undisclosed ingredients and a manufacturer-linked author. This is preliminary support. Under-eye skin is thin.

Where the definition comes from

Source wording

“Periorbital hyperpigmentation is caused by various exogenous and endogenous factors … genetic or hereditary, excessive pigmentation, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation … periorbital edema, excessive vascularity, shadowing due to skin laxity and tear trough associated with aging.” — Sarkar et al., J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 2016 (PMID 26962392).

Periorbital Hyperpigmentation: A Comprehensive Review. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (Sarkar R)

Ingredients at a glance

2023 · 45 people · completers (21 active / 24 placebo) out of 60 enrolled with infraorbital dark circles · PMID 38774851

Ingredient Measured outcome Based on Certainty Year
— Skin effect Human trial Low 2023
— Skin effect Human trial Low 2025
— Skin effect Human trial Low 2021
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Retinol Skin effect Human trial Low 2016
Caffeine Skin effect Human trial Very low 2015

Studies and results

  1. Classification by causes of dark circles and appropriate evaluation method of dark circles

    In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled split-face trial, 24 people with mixed-type dark circles used a test product containing 3% vitamin C, 0.1% vitamin A and 0.5% vitamin E for eight weeks. Brightness (L*), melanin index and image-analysis lightness improved significantly on the treated side compared with the placebo side.

    Human trial · 2016 · 24 people · adults with mixed-type dark circles · Instrument-measured brightness, melanin index and skin thickness in mixed-type (pigment plus vascular) dark circles over eight weeks. · Three actives were used together. 24 people took part, all with the mixed type of dark circles; a separate 100-person study was used first to choose which measurements to trust. The abstract reports instrument readings.

    PMID 26346687

  2. 2 Caffeine Skin effect
    Evaluation of the clinical efficacy and safety of an eye counter pad containing caffeine and vitamin K in emulsified Emu oil base

    In a single-blind trial of 11 women, an eye pad containing 3% caffeine and 1% vitamin K in an emu-oil base was worn under one eye and a water pad under the other for four weeks. Visual and instrument assessment found less wrinkle depth and lighter dark circles on the caffeine side.

    Human trial · 2015 · 11 people · healthy women · Wrinkle depth and the appearance of dark circles under the eyes over four weeks, assessed visually and with a skin-testing instrument. · This pad also contained 1% vitamin K and an emu-oil base. 11 women took part, the trial was single-blind, the control was a water pad. Wrinkle reduction was the main aim; dark circles were assessed alongside it.

    PMID 25625116

Study limits

Study conditions and measured outcomes.

  • ev-dark-circles-artemisia-rct Human trial · 2023

    Baseline DE and DL values differed significantly between groups (randomisation imbalance); 15 of 60 participants dropped out; the melanin endpoint reached between-group significance.

  • ev-dark-circles-eye-cream-rct Human trial · 2025

    In-vitro work is prominent; industry-funded. A systematic review of periorbital hyperpigmentation notes few high-quality studies.

  • ev-dark-circles-photonumeric-rct Human trial · 2021

    The study's primary purpose was scale validation; the control is an untreated half-face.

  • Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Retinol Human trial · 2016

    Three actives were used together. 24 people took part, all with the mixed type of dark circles; a separate 100-person study was used first to choose which measurements to trust. The abstract reports instrument readings.

  • Caffeine Human trial · 2015

    This pad also contained 1% vitamin K and an emu-oil base. 11 women took part, the trial was single-blind, the control was a water pad. Wrinkle reduction was the main aim; dark circles were assessed alongside it.

Products with a basis for this

10 products · Rapid Wrinkle Repair Regenerating Cream (Retinol + Hyaluronic Acid) · Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Gel-Creme · 2023 · 45 people · completers (21 active / 24 placebo) out of 60 enrolled with infraorbital dark circles · PMID 38774851

Research-backed approaches

These studies measured finished products and whole routines.

  1. 1 Skin effect
    Evaluation of the Effect of Artemisia Absinthium L. Eye-Cream on Infra-Orbital Dark Circle: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial

    In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, a 20% Artemisia absinthium aqueous-extract eye cream produced a significant between-group difference in Mexameter-measured periorbital melanin after treatment (p=0.01), with a greater melanin reduction than placebo.

    Human trial · 2023 · 45 people · completers (21 active / 24 placebo) out of 60 enrolled with infraorbital dark circles · Mexameter-measured periorbital melanin, erythema and colour values. · Baseline DE and DL values differed significantly between groups (randomisation imbalance); 15 of 60 participants dropped out; the melanin endpoint reached between-group significance.

    PMID 38774851

  2. 2 Skin effect
    In vitro, ex vivo, instrumental and clinical evaluation of a topical cream on the signs of periorbital ageing

    In 33 women, an eye cream lightened dark circles within 7 days by instrumental measurement and within 28 days by clinical assessment over a 56-day study.

    Human trial · 2025 · 33 people · women in a 56-day instrumental and clinical study · Women using the eye cream twice daily for 56 days, assessed by instrumental and clinical grading of periorbital ageing signs. · In-vitro work is prominent; industry-funded. A systematic review of periorbital hyperpigmentation notes few high-quality studies.

    PMID 39119663

  3. 3 Skin effect
    A validated photonumeric scale for infraorbital dark circles and its application in evaluating the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment product in a split-face randomized clinical trial

    In a split-face randomized clinical trial of 58 subjects with visible infraorbital dark circles, 8 weeks of a cosmetic eye treatment reduced the validated 10-point dark-circle grade by 0.74 versus baseline and by 0.59 versus the untreated control (P<0.001).

    Human trial · 2021 · 58 people · subjects with visible infraorbital dark circles · Infraorbital dark-circle grade over 8 weeks, assessed with a validated photonumeric scale. · The study's primary purpose was scale validation; the control is an untreated half-face.

    PMID 33038017

Common questions

Which ingredients have been studied for Dark circles?
Ingredients with evidence for Dark circles: Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Retinol, Caffeine.
How many people were studied?
5 findings · 2023 · 45 people · completers (21 active / 24 placebo) out of 60 enrolled with infraorbital dark circles · PMID 38774851
What can I use for Dark circles?
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Retinol, Caffeine · 2023 · 45 people · completers (21 active / 24 placebo) out of 60 enrolled with infraorbital dark circles · PMID 38774851
Can I use these every day for Dark circles?
Women using the eye cream twice daily for 56 days, assessed by instrumental and clinical grading of periorbital ageing signs(2025 · 33 participants · 33 women in a 56-day instrumental and clinical study · PMID 39119663)

Other concerns