PoreWise Ingredient
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
Public databaseASCORBIC ACID
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is an antioxidant used in skincare for uneven tone and signs of photoaging; L-ascorbic acid is the form skin cells use directly. The strongest evidence comes from a 2011 human trial: In a double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial of 30 people with two or more solar lentigines, a serum with 10% L-ascorbic acid and 2% phytic acid lowered the pigmentation index of the treated lesions over three months while the vehicle-treated lesions stayed stable (P <= 0.003 from month 1 to month 4). Six adverse events, mostly halo depigmentation, were judged possibly related to the product. 2011 · 30 people · healthy subjects with two or more solar lentigines · PMID 22151934 · The serum combines two actives. Each person applied the product to one side of the body and the vehicle to the other. 30 people, and six halo-depigmentation events were possibly related to the product. The authors call for larger studies. 4 products contain Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid); the highest it appears is number 2 of 17.
- Also written as:
- L-Ascorbic acid, Vitamin C, Ascorbic acid
- INCI name:
- ASCORBIC ACID
- CAS number:
- 50-81-7
- Source:
- PubChem
Functions
Products with this ingredient
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) appears on 4 product ingredient lists, most often around number 2; its highest position is number 2 of 17.
| Product | Brand | Where it sits on the list |
|---|---|---|
| C15 Brightening Super Booster | Paula's Choice | 2 of 17 |
| Pure Vitamin C12 Serum | La Roche-Posay | 2 of 30 |
| Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum | CeraVe | 2 of 26 |
| Rapid Wrinkle Repair Regenerating Cream (Retinol + Hyaluronic Acid) | Neutrogena | 31 of 31 |
Studies and results
- 1 Skin effectA randomized controlled study to evaluate the depigmenting activity of L-ascorbic acid plus phytic acid-serum vs. placebo on solar lentigines
In a double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial of 30 people with two or more solar lentigines, a serum with 10% L-ascorbic acid and 2% phytic acid lowered the pigmentation index of the treated lesions over three months while the vehicle-treated lesions stayed stable (P <= 0.003 from month 1 to month 4). Six adverse events, mostly halo depigmentation, were judged possibly related to the product.
Human trial · 2011 · 30 people · healthy subjects with two or more solar lentigines · Pigmentation index, dermoscopic pigmentation and brightness (L*) of solar lentigines over three months, with two months of follow-up. · The serum combines two actives. Each person applied the product to one side of the body and the vehicle to the other. 30 people, and six halo-depigmentation events were possibly related to the product. The authors call for larger studies.
- 2 Skin effectAnti-aging and brightening effects of a topical treatment containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract: A split-face, randomized controlled trial
In a split-face randomized controlled trial of 50 women, a serum with 20% vitamin C, vitamin E and raspberry leaf cell culture extract significantly improved skin radiance measured by Glossymeter GL200, along with skin colour and elasticity, over 2 months.
Human trial · 2020 · 50 people · women aged 30-65 · Women aged 30-65 applying the serum to one side of the face for 2 months, with the untreated side as control. · Split-face with an untreated.
- 3 Skin effectUse of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on photodamaged skin topography
In a 3-month randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial of 19 volunteers with photodamaged skin, topical ascorbic acid produced a 73.7% greater improvement in optical profilometry Ra and shadows values than the vehicle, with significant clinical improvement in tactile roughness.
Human trial · 1999 · 19 people · evaluable volunteers aged 36-72 with photodamaged skin · Adults aged 36-72 with mild-to-moderate facial photodamage, applying the serum daily for 3 months. · Small sample (19) in photodamaged.
- 4 Skin effectBateman purpura (dermatoporosis): a localized scurvy treated by topical vitamin C - double-blind randomized placebo-controlled clinical trial
In a 12-week hemi-member, randomized, double-blind, comparative study of 18 patients over 60 with Bateman purpura, twice-daily 5% topical vitamin C improved skin symptoms and increased dermal thickness and elasticity on the treated side versus control.
Human trial · 2018 · 18 people · patients over 60 with Bateman purpura · Adults over 60 with Bateman purpura (senile purpura) applying 5% topical vitamin C twice daily for 12 weeks. · Small sample (18 patients) and a single-centre study; the population is photodamaged older skin.
- 5 Skin effectClassification by causes of dark circles and appropriate evaluation method of dark circles
In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled split-face trial, 24 people with mixed-type dark circles used a test product containing 3% vitamin C, 0.1% vitamin A and 0.5% vitamin E for eight weeks. Brightness (L*), melanin index and image-analysis lightness improved significantly on the treated side compared with the placebo side.
Human trial · 2016 · 24 people · adults with mixed-type dark circles · Instrument-measured brightness, melanin index and skin thickness in mixed-type (pigment plus vascular) dark circles over eight weeks. · Three actives were used together. 24 people took part, all with the mixed type of dark circles; a separate 100-person study was used first to choose which measurements to trust. The abstract reports instrument readings.
- 6 Skin effectNovel Vitamin C and E and Green Tea Polyphenols Combination Serum Improves Photoaged Facial Skin
In 31 women aged 43-65, a serum combining vitamins C and E with green tea polyphenols produced statistically significant improvements in all clinically graded parameters over 12 weeks, including enhanced skin smoothness and radiance, plus an ultrasound-measured increase in skin density.
Human trial · 2021 · 31 people · healthy women aged 43-65 (mean 57.9) · Women aged 43-65 with photoaged facial skin, applying the serum twice daily for 12 weeks. · Radiance was a clinical grading parameter.
- 7 Skin effectEfficacy of topical vitamin C in melasma and photoaging: A systematic review
A 2023 systematic review of 7 randomized controlled trials (139 volunteers) found that topically applied vitamin C made uneven, wrinkled skin appear smoother and lightened pigmentation on objective assessments, though noticeable change may need long-term use.
Review article · 2023 · Topical vitamin C formulations studied for melasma or photodamage. · The included trials were small; the review notes more studies are needed on the ideal concentration and long-term effect.
Skin concerns this ingredient has been studied for
The people in each study had that concern.
Common questions
- What does Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) do in skincare?
- Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is an antioxidant used in skincare for uneven tone and signs of photoaging; L-ascorbic acid is the form skin cells use directly.
- Where does Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) sit in these formulas?
- Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) appears in 4 products; highest on the list is number 2 of 17, in C15 Brightening Super Booster.
- Which products contain Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)?
- Products that contain Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid): C15 Brightening Super Booster, Pure Vitamin C12 Serum, Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum, Rapid Wrinkle Repair Regenerating Cream (Retinol + Hyaluronic Acid).
- How strong is the evidence behind Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)?
- 7 findings on Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid); the strongest is a 2011 human trial of 30 healthy subjects with two or more solar lentigines.
- What did the study on Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) measure?
- 2011 · 30 people · healthy subjects with two or more solar lentigines · PMID 22151934 · The serum combines two actives. Each person applied the product to one side of the body and the vehicle to the other. 30 people, and six halo-depigmentation events were possibly related to the product. The authors call for larger studies.