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Skin concern

Melasma

Primary source

Melasma: a chronic, relapsing hyperpigmentary disorder that appears as brown or grey-brown patches, most often on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and chin. It is more common in women and in people with darker skin, and it is triggered or worsened by sun exposure, hormones and certain treatments. The strongest evidence comes from a 2015 human trial: In a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind trial of 102 women with melasma or solar lentigo, a cream with 2.51% arbutin applied twice daily for 8 weeks lightened discolouration in 75.86% of the melasma group and 56.00% of the solar-lentigo group. 8 ingredients have evidence for Melasma: Arbutin, Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate, Tranexamic acid, Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid).

Brown facial patches have more than one cause, and the diagnosis belongs with a clinician. The ingredients tested here (arbutin, tranexamic acid, vitamin C) are topical; the strongest reference treatment in this field, hydroquinone, sits at the boundary between cosmetic and prescribed use.

Where the definition comes from

Source wording

“Melasma is a chronic relapsing hyperpigmentary disorder with difficult long-term management.” — the opening sentence of Kang and Picardo's 2026 Experimental Dermatology review.

Melasma: When Dermal Photoageing Precedes Melanocyte Ageing Experimental Dermatology (Kang HY, Picardo M)

Ingredients at a glance

2015 · 102 people · women (54 study / 48 control) with melasma or solar lentigo · PMID 26119285

Ingredient Measured outcome Based on Certainty Year
Arbutin Skin effect Human trial Moderate 2015
Arbutin Skin effect Human trial Moderate 2019
Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate Skin effect Review article Moderate 2026
Tranexamic acid Skin effect Human trial Moderate 2025
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) Skin effect Review article Low 2023

Studies and results

  1. 1 Arbutin Skin effect
    A double-blind, placebo-controlled randomized trial of Serratulae quinquefoliae folium, a new source of beta-arbutin, in selected skin hyperpigmentations

    In a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind trial of 102 women with melasma or solar lentigo, a cream with 2.51% arbutin applied twice daily for 8 weeks lightened discolouration in 75.86% of the melasma group and 56.00% of the solar-lentigo group.

    Human trial · 2015 · 102 people · women (54 study / 48 control) with melasma or solar lentigo · Women aged 26-55 with melasma or solar lentigo, applying a 2.51% arbutin cream twice daily for 8 weeks. · The active was an aqueous extract standardised to 2.51% arbutin.

    PMID 26119285

    Read the full finding →
    Source:A double-blind, placebo-controlled randomized trial of Serratulae quinquefoliae folium, a new source of beta-arbutin, in selected skin hyperpigmentations
  2. 2 Arbutin Skin effect
    A cream of herbal mixture to improve melasma

    In a randomized, double-blind, controlled study of 90 volunteers with melasma, the arbutin-cream arm showed a significant fall in melasma severity score from 12.65 to 10.84 over 12 weeks; two participants had mild erythema and itching that resolved after stopping the cream.

    Human trial · 2019 · 90 people · volunteers with melasma · Volunteers with melasma using an arbutin cream twice daily for 12 weeks (one of three arms: herbal mixture, arbutin cream, placebo). · Small per-arm sample and a single active agent among three comparison groups; tolerability was good overall with two mild irritation events.

    PMID 30980618

    Read the full finding →
    Source:A cream of herbal mixture to improve melasma
  3. 3 Avobenzone Homosalate Octisalate Octocrylene Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate Skin effect
    The Influence of Sunscreen Use on Skin Pigmentation Disorders: Melasma, Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation, and Vitiligo

    A 2026 review of the 2015-2025 literature concluded that sun protection plays a central role in the prevention and treatment of pigmentation disorders including melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and that broad-spectrum sunscreens with visible-light protection may enhance protection against hyperpigmentation.

    Review article · 2026 · People with melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or vitiligo · People managing or preventing pigmentation disorders, particularly melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation; those with darker skin phototypes (IV-VI) where visible light can worsen hyperpigmentation. · 2026 · People with melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or vitiligo. · PMID 42793277

    PMID 42793277

    Read the full finding →
    Source:The Influence of Sunscreen Use on Skin Pigmentation Disorders: Melasma, Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation, and Vitiligo
  4. 4 Tranexamic acid Skin effect
    Randomized Clinical Trial on the Efficacy of Oral Tranexamic Acid Versus Topical Tranexamic Acid in Treatment of Melasma

    In a randomized trial of 50 female melasma patients, a topical 5% tranexamic acid cream applied twice daily for 12 weeks reduced the Melasma Area and Severity Index by 50.88% (p=0.001).

    Human trial · 2025 · 50 people · female melasma patients · Female melasma patients applying a 5% topical tranexamic acid cream twice daily for 12 weeks (compared with an oral tranexamic acid arm). · Small sample (50) and a single-centre study; the trial compared topical against oral tranexamic acid.

    PMID 40923777

    Read the full finding →
    Source:Randomized Clinical Trial on the Efficacy of Oral Tranexamic Acid Versus Topical Tranexamic Acid in Treatment of Melasma
  5. 5 Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) Skin effect
    Efficacy of topical vitamin C in melasma and photoaging: A systematic review

    A 2023 systematic review of 7 randomized controlled trials (139 volunteers) found that topically applied vitamin C made uneven, wrinkled skin appear smoother and lightened pigmentation on objective assessments, though noticeable change may need long-term use.

    Review article · 2023 · Topical vitamin C formulations studied for melasma or photodamage. · The included trials were small; the review notes more studies are needed on the ideal concentration and long-term effect.

    PMID 37128827

    Read the full finding →
    Source:Efficacy of topical vitamin C in melasma and photoaging: A systematic review

Study limits

Study conditions and measured outcomes.

  • Arbutin Human trial · 2015

    The active was an aqueous extract standardised to 2.51% arbutin.

  • Arbutin Human trial · 2019

    Small per-arm sample and a single active agent among three comparison groups; tolerability was good overall with two mild irritation events.

  • Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate Review article · 2026

    2026 · People with melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or vitiligo. · PMID 42793277

  • Tranexamic acid Human trial · 2025

    Small sample (50) and a single-centre study; the trial compared topical against oral tranexamic acid.

  • Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) Review article · 2023

    The included trials were small; the review notes more studies are needed on the ideal concentration and long-term effect.

Products with a basis for this

12 products · Ultra-Light Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30 · Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid SPF50+ (fragrance-free) · 2015 · 102 people · women (54 study / 48 control) with melasma or solar lentigo · PMID 26119285

Common questions

Which ingredients have been studied for Melasma?
Ingredients with evidence for Melasma: Arbutin, Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate, Tranexamic acid, Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid).
How many people were studied?
5 findings · 2015 · 102 people · women (54 study / 48 control) with melasma or solar lentigo · PMID 26119285
What can I use for Melasma?
Arbutin, Avobenzone, Homosalate · 2015 · 102 people · women (54 study / 48 control) with melasma or solar lentigo · PMID 26119285
Can I use these every day for Melasma?
Women aged 26-55 with melasma or solar lentigo, applying a 2.51% arbutin cream twice daily for 8 weeks（2015 · 102 participants · 102 women (54 study / 48 control) with melasma or solar lentigo · PMID 26119285） Volunteers with melasma using an arbutin cream twice daily for 12 weeks (one of three arms: herbal mixture, arbutin cream, placebo)（2019 · 90 participants · 90 volunteers with melasma · PMID 30980618）

Other concerns

Acne marks and scars Acne and breakouts Barrier damage Blackheads Bumps and rough texture Closed comedones Combination skin Dark circles Dark spots Skincare for deeper skin tones Dehydrated skin Dryness Dull skin Eczema and atopic dermatitis Hyperpigmentation Large pores Loss of firmness Skincare for men Oily skin Skincare while on acne medication Peeling and flaking Perioral dermatitis Skincare during pregnancy Psoriasis Facial redness Rosacea Sebaceous filaments Sensitive skin Sun damage Sun protection Teenage skin Uneven skin tone Wrinkles and fine lines