Glow Deep Serum : Rice + Alpha-Arbutin

Product description

A rice bran water serum listing alpha-arbutin and niacinamide, marketed for dullness and uneven tone.

Full ingredient list

Kept exactly as the source printed it, including spelling in the original.

1. 1 ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WATER
2. 2 WATER
3. 3 GLYCERIN
4. 4 BUTYLENE GLYCOL
5. 5 1,2-HEXANEDIOL
6. 6 DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL
7. 7 ARBUTIN
8. 8 NIACINAMIDE
9. 9 METHYL GLUCETH-20
10. 10 PANTHENOL
11. 11 POLYGLYCERIN-3
12. 12 TREHALOSE
13. 13 GLYCERYL GLUCOSIDE
14. 14 HYDROLYZED JOJOBA ESTERS
15. 15 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
16. 16 ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN
17. 17 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE
18. 18 XANTHAN GUM
19. 19 ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER
20. 20 ARGININE
21. 21 DISODIUM EDTA
22. 22 SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE
23. 23 GLUCOSE
24. 24 COIX LACRYMA-JOBI MA-YUEN SEED EXTRACT
25. 25 COPTIS JAPONICA ROOT EXTRACT
26. 26 GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) SEED EXTRACT
27. 27 HORDEUM DISTICHON (BARLEY) EXTRACT
28. 28 ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) EXTRACT
29. 29 SESAMUM INDICUM (SESAME) SEED EXTRACT
30. 30 TRITICUM VULGARE (WHEAT) SEED EXTRACT
31. 31 VIGNA RADIATA SEED EXTRACT
32. 32 ZEA MAYS (CORN) KERNEL EXTRACT

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Alpha-Arbutin, Niacinamide, Methyl Gluceth-20, Panthenol, Polyglycerin-3, Trehalose, Glyceryl Glucoside, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glucose, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Extract, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Seed Extract, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract

Ingredient analysis

Arbutin · Actives · NIACINAMIDE · Barrier lipids · GLYCERIN · Humectants

Evidence

• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind trial of 102 women with melasma or solar lentigo, a cream with 2.51% arbutin applied twice daily for 8 weeks lightened discolouration in 75.86% of the melasma group and 56.00% of the solar-lentigo group.

  Who it applies to: Women aged 26-55 with melasma or solar lentigo, applying a 2.51% arbutin cream twice daily for 8 weeks.

  Study limits: The active was an aqueous extract standardised to 2.51% arbutin.

  Source:A double-blind, placebo-controlled randomized trial of Serratulae quinquefoliae folium, a new source of beta-arbutin, in selected skin hyperpigmentations
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In a randomized, double-blind, controlled study of 90 volunteers with melasma, the arbutin-cream arm showed a significant fall in melasma severity score from 12.65 to 10.84 over 12 weeks; two participants had mild erythema and itching that resolved after stopping the cream.

  Who it applies to: Volunteers with melasma using an arbutin cream twice daily for 12 weeks (one of three arms: herbal mixture, arbutin cream, placebo).

  Study limits: Small per-arm sample and a single active agent among three comparison groups; tolerability was good overall with two mild irritation events.

  Source:A cream of herbal mixture to improve melasma
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In a randomized, placebo-controlled split-face study of 30 healthy Japanese women, a cosmetic containing 4% niacinamide reduced the skin-surface average roughness (Ra) value significantly more than the niacinamide-free control site after 8 weeks (P<0.05).

  Who it applies to: Skin-surface roughness measured by replica profilometry (Ra).

  Study limits: Measured at the eye area on a photoaged/wrinkle cohort; the endpoint is surface roughness.

  Source:Evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing niacinamide
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In 20 people with Fitzpatrick skin types IV-V, a broad-spectrum sunscreen containing sclareolide and niacinamide significantly prevented experimentally induced post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: in stripped, exposed zones the protected skin improved by +5.96 ITA degrees versus -9.88 in unprotected skin (net protection about 16 ITA degrees, p < 0.001).

  Who it applies to: People with darker skin phototypes (IV-V) prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, applying the sunscreen daily for 20 days under UV and visible-light exposure.

  Study limits: Small sample (20), within-subject controlled model of experimentally induced pigmentation; the abstract calls for comparative studies with and; industry involvement.

  Source:An Investigator-Blinded, Randomized Trial of a Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen Containing Sclareolide and Niacinamide for the Prevention of Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Skin of Color
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In 72 women with visible signs of ageing, a niacinamide-containing biomimetic lamellar cream significantly improved the Cutometer R5 elasticity parameter, wrinkle score, TEWL and corneometer values over 4 weeks compared against the untreated side.

  Who it applies to: Women with visible signs of ageing, applying the cream twice daily for 4 weeks.

  Study limits: Grading of high-resolution images failed to detect improvements in skin texture; proof-of-concept studies.

  Source:Cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic lamellar cream formulation on barrier function or the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in randomized proof-of-concept clinical studies
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In 91 women with melasma, a skincare routine containing vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and 2-mercaptonicotinyl glycine significantly reduced MASI after 3 months, with roughly 38-41% reduction by 6 months.

  Who it applies to: Women aged about 44 with melasma, phototypes III-IV, using the routine twice daily with daily SPF50+ sunscreen.

  Study limits: A clinically relevant difference favoured Kligman's triple combination in the first 3 months; industry-funded; skin radiance and fine wrinkles also improved.

  Source:A Novel Dermocosmetic Routine Containing Vitamin B3 and 2-Mercaptonicotinyl Glycine Significantly Improves Melasma After 3 Months of Daily Use
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled split-face trial of 52 Taiwanese subjects, 4% niacinamide alone significantly reduced instrument-measured pore counts at week 8, and 4% niacinamide with 0.03% kinetin produced persistent significant reductions in pore, spot, wrinkle and evenness counts at weeks 8 and 12.

  Who it applies to: Instrument-measured facial pore counts over 8-12 weeks.

  Study limits: The niacinamide-group showed significant pore reduction at week 8; 'pore counts' is an instrument parameter.

  Source:The clinical anti-aging effects of topical kinetin and niacinamide in Asians: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative trial
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial of 100 Japanese subjects, a 2% niacinamide moisturiser significantly lowered sebum excretion rate after 2 and 4 weeks; in a separate 30-person Caucasian split-face study it significantly reduced casual sebum level after 6 weeks.

  Who it applies to: Adults with facial sebum concerns applying a 2% niacinamide moisturiser for 2 to 6 weeks; measured with sebumeter-based sebum excretion rate and casual sebum level.

  Study limits: The effect differs by measured endpoint and population.

  Source:The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In 40 people with mild-to-moderate acne all using topical benzoyl peroxide plus adapalene, a moisturiser with ceramides and niacinamide significantly improved non-inflammatory, inflammatory and total acne lesions on that side of the face versus a hydrophilic cream after 8 weeks, and decreased cutaneous irritation.

  Who it applies to: People on topical anti-acne medication who add a moisturiser alongside treatment, in a split-face, double-blind, randomized design for 8 weeks.

  Study limits: All participants used prescription/OTC anti-acne drugs (5% benzoyl peroxide + 0.1% adapalene). TEWL, hydration, sebum, pH and other biophysical measures stayed close between the two creams. This is adjunctive care.

  Source:Efficacy of ceramides and niacinamide-containing moisturizer versus hydrophilic cream in combination with topical anti-acne treatment in mild to moderate acne vulgaris: A split face, double-blinded, randomized controlled trial
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In a 12-week randomized, double-blind half-face study, a combination of 4-hexylresorcinol and niacinamide improved hyperpigmentation spots (L*), the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and skin firmness significantly more than niacinamide alone.

  Who it applies to: Chinese adults using the combination cream twice daily for 12 weeks in a split-face design.

  Study limits: Industry-funded (Unilever R&D); part of the evidence comes from in-vitro melanocyte and 3D skin models.

  Source:Superior even skin tone and anti-ageing benefit of a combination of 4-hexylresorcinol and niacinamide
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Low Primary source

  A facial moisturiser containing niacinamide improved stratum corneum barrier function and skin hydration, measured instrumentally, in people with rosacea over four weeks of twice-daily use.

  Who it applies to: A leave-on facial moisturiser, applied twice daily for four weeks, in adults with rosacea.

  Study limits: The tested article was a finished moisturiser. Fifty participants, one centre, four weeks. The study measured barrier function and hydration.

  Source:Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Low Primary source

  In a randomized split-face controlled trial in people with rosacea-associated erythema and sensitive skin, a dermocosmetic containing mineralizing water, probiotic fractions, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide significantly improved erythema at day 15 (p<0.01) and day 30 (p<0.001), with skin erythema, tightness, dryness, hydration and TEWL improving versus the untreated side (p<=0.05).

  Who it applies to: Facial erythema, tightness, dryness, hydration and TEWL over 30 days.

  Study limits: The comparator is usual skin care / an untreated half-face.

  Source:A Randomized, Controlled Clinical Trial of a Dermocosmetic Containing Vichy Volcanic Mineralizing Water and Probiotic Fractions in Subjects with Rosacea Associated with Erythema and Sensitive Skin and Wearing Protective Masks
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Low Primary source

  In an open randomized, vehicle-controlled trial of 48 people with mild-to-moderate facial seborrheic dermatitis, 4% nicotinamide cream once daily for 12 weeks reduced the combined erythema/scaling/infiltration score by 75% from baseline versus 35% with the vehicle (p<0.05).

  Who it applies to: Combined clinical score of erythema, scaling and infiltration over 12 weeks.

  Study limits: Open-label.

  Source:Topical nicotinamide for seborrheic dermatitis: an open randomized study
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Low Primary source

  In 30 women with melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, a serum combining lotus sprout extract, tranexamic acid and niacinamide reduced skin tone unevenness by 38% and 33% respectively over 16 weeks (P < 0.008).

  Who it applies to: Women with melasma or PIH, 70% with Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI, applying the serum twice daily for 16 weeks.

  Study limits: 30 participants; "skin tone unevenness" is a sponsor-defined endpoint.

  Source:Efficacy and Tolerability of a Topical Pigment-Correcting Serum in Melasma and Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In a randomized, double-blind, four-arm crossover study of 51 healthy volunteers with dry skin, an emollient containing glycerol and petrolatum raised corneometry-measured skin moisture significantly above its vehicle (P < 0.0001) over 12 hours. The authors attributed the hydration gain to the glycerol component and the lower water loss to the petrolatum component.

  Who it applies to: Corneometry (skin moisture) and transepidermal water loss over 12 hours after one application.

  Study limits: Measured on the forearms. The significant hydration result comes from the full emollient containing both glycerol and petrolatum.

  Source:Combined effects of glycerol and petrolatum in an emollient cream: A randomized, double-blind, crossover study in healthy volunteers with dry skin
• Skin effect Review article Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  Topical glycerol improves stratum corneum hydration, barrier function and skin mechanical properties. The review also reports reduced irritation response and faster wound healing, and traces the effect to aquaporin-3 transport and to glycerol's own presence in the skin.

  Who it applies to: Leave-on products. The review discusses both healthy skin and skin with dry or barrier-impaired conditions such as atopic dermatitis.

  Study limits: A narrative review. It compiles mechanisms and results from other studies.

  Source:Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
• Skin effect Official ingredient listing Certainty: High Public database

  Glycerin is classified as a humectant in cosmetic ingredient databases: its role in a formula is to hold water.

  Who it applies to: Cosmetic formulas generally. · Ingredient database · GLYCERIN

  Study limits: Skin effect of to the stratum corneum comes from a separate review of the literature. · Ingredient database · GLYCERIN

  Source:PubChemCosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In 88 women with sensitive skin, a face cream containing Centella asiatica leaf extract, ceramide NP and panthenol lowered the SS-10 symptom score by 66% at week 2 and 76% at week 4, with irritation, tautness, itching and redness all significantly reduced.

  Who it applies to: Chinese women with sensitive skin applying the cream to the whole face, followed up at day 2, weeks 1, 2 and 4.

  Study limits: Observational and self-controlled.

  Source:The Effectiveness and Safety of a Skin Care Product With Centella asiatica Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, and Panthenol in Subjects With Sensitive Skin: A Prospective, Observational Study
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In 38 children with atopic dermatitis, a cream containing linoleic acid, 5% dexpanthenol and ceramide improved SCORAD significantly more than a 5% urea cream after 4 weeks (P = 0.043); both groups improved from baseline.

  Who it applies to: Children with mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis applying the cream twice daily for 4 weeks in a randomised, double-blind, bilateral paired design.

  Study limits: Both interventions were non-prescription moisturisers: this is emollient / basic skin care. Small sample (37 completed); stratum corneum hydration and time to remission stayed close between groups.

  Source:A cream containing linoleic acid, 5% dexpanthenol and ceramide in the treatment of atopic dermatitis
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Moderate Primary source

  In 110 people with facial sensitive skin, a cream containing panthenol used twice daily for 28 days significantly increased stratum corneum moisture and reduced erythema index, redness (a* value) and transepidermal water loss.

  Who it applies to: People with facial sensitive skin applying the cream twice daily for 28 days.

  Study limits: Panthenol was combined with prebiotics and a probiotic lysate.

  Source:Efficacy and safety of a cream containing panthenol, prebiotics, and probiotic lysate for improving sensitive skin symptoms
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Low Primary source

  After facial non-ablative fractional laser treatment, a panthenol mask lowered the erythema and pigmentation indices on days 3, 7 and 14 against a saline dressing, raised stratum corneum moisture, and reduced transepidermal water loss over the same days. Sebum content was also higher in the mask group on days 7 and 14.

  Who it applies to: Skin recovering from 1550 nm and 1927 nm non-ablative fractional laser on the face. Both groups received standard post-procedure care.

  Study limits: The mask also contained madecassoside and bisabolol. It is one trial of 60 people, all recovering from the same procedure, and the published grant list includes L'Oreal Dermatological Beauty China (La Roche-Posay).

  Source:Evaluation of the Efficacy and Safety of a Panthenol-Enriched Mask for Skin Barrier Recovery After Facial Laser Treatment: Results of a Double-Blind Randomized Controlled Study
• Skin effect Human trial Certainty: Low Primary source

  In a randomized, investigator-blind, split-face trial of 40 Asian acne patients, a moisturizer containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, licochalcone A, ceramide and panthenol improved facial hydration more than a traditional moisturizer (p=0.001) and produced lower dryness scores (p=0.021) over 4 weeks.

  Who it applies to: Facial hydration and investigator-rated dryness over 4 weeks.

  Study limits: All participants were on prescription acne therapy (including oral isotretinoin), so the dryness is drug-induced; both sides used a moisturizer, so this is a comparison between two moisturisers; acne lesion counts decreased equally on both sides.

  Source:The efficacy of a bioactive moisturizer in mitigating side effects of acne therapies: a randomized, investigator-blind, split-face trial
• Sensitization Review article Certainty: Low Primary source

  Panthenol is treated as non-allergenic, this review argues that frequent exposure, especially on damaged skin, can produce hypersensitivity to it. The likely route is a delayed (type IV) contact reaction; immediate and mixed reactions remain possible. Proposes patch testing with the patient's own product and with panthenol 5% in petrolatum.

  Who it applies to: People who use panthenol products repeatedly, particularly those with atopic or damaged skin - the group the author says is most exposed.

  Study limits: A single-author narrative review. The mechanism it proposes is stated as likely. Read it as a reason to keep panthenol on the list of possible allergens.

  Source:Pantothenic Acid as an Unexpected Cause of Hypersensitivity to Sensitive or Atopic Skin Care Products - A Narrative Review

Related skin concerns

Skin concerns with evidence for ingredients on this list.

Formula history

1 version of this formula on record.

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